“A federal appeals court has ruled that restaurants can create a “tip pool” that requires servers to share a percentage of tips with kitchen staff so long as the restaurant pays more than the minimum wage.”—via OregonLive
“The idea came from a conversation with my sous-chef. We were trying to find a new way to cook carrots, and he recalled working in a restaurant in France where the chef cooked pork with consommé and hay for hours at a low temperature, until the meat was tender and the broth an elixir. It seemed like roasting carrots in hay would yield similarly delicious results, so the next weekend at the farmers’ market, I found myself shoving a gigantic bale of hay into the backseat of my car.”—
via Daniel Patterson, chef of Coi in San Francisco.
Ox tail soup with kale, tomato, charred onions and white beans. Finished with extra virgin olive oil, a squeeze of lemon and shiitake crisps. Crostini.
I’ve been telling Liana that I’m going to make ox tail soup on my next day off. I’ve been hesitant because I’ve always made them with Asian flavor profiles - that meatiness always called for a bold soy flavor in my head. I wanted to take a step back and do a clean soup without mistakenly transforming it into a Filipino kare kare or a french braised stew.
Fabrication details (in chronological order) follow. Enjoy!
Blanch 1 bunch of cleaned kale and shock in the fridge. Blanch ox tails in boiling water and put in another heavy pot with a mirepoix (2 parts onion, 1 part carrot and celery, large dice), some thyme and cover with water by 1 inch. Bring to a boil and let simmer for two hours, or until the meat pulls easily off the bone. Strain off scum and fat frequently to get a clean flavored broth.
Preheat your oven to 400 degrees. Toss fresh shiitake mushrooms with canola oil, Kosher salt and freshly cracked pepper. Roast in oven until crispy, about 35 minutes. Carefully slice into strips. Set aside.
When meat is tender, scoop it from the pot and gently pull “nuggets” from the bone and set aside in a bowl. Toss bones. Strain vegetables and discard to get a clean broth. Add diced tomatoes, two small cloves of smashed garlic, white beans (canned is fine) and the kale (squeezed of its liquid and chopped). Supplement soup with stock if it needs body. Cook until flavors combine, about twenty minutes.
In the mean time, julienne onions (wedges from root to top), toss with olive oil, Kosher salt and freshly cracked pepper. Put under broiler so that tips char slightly.
Add meat back to the soup and warm through. Top with charred onions and shiitake crisps. Serve with crostini and a creamy cheese, such as a Mt. Townsend Creamery Cirrus.
There’s a bit too much going on in the soup, but it had enough body to keep us satisfied on a relatively chilly night. When Liana asked “Where’s the bone marrow?” I instantly thought that those delicious nuggets of love would put the soup over the top.
“The way information travels these days, finding out the results in advance is a total buzz kill,” said Steven Loi, a 26-year-old entrepreneur in Silicon Valley. “I’ll be pretty nonchalant about watching the Games if they’re delayed. I get a lot of my updates online.”—
I was talking with my neighbor on the bus this morning about the iPad. He’s a manager of a web development company in charge of mobile flash applications / games.
We spoke for about 40 minutes about the intricacies of Flash (I used to develop since Flash 4.0) and how it all boils down to Apple’s arrogance, Steve Jobs, and the huge gaping holes of “Internets” when you click on the Wall Street Journal. He gave some really intelligent points and was very logical in his arguments, until he said…
"…but there’s no damn way I’m letting go of my iPhone."
“The noodles came from Richie Nakano, a sous chef at Nopa whose Hapa Ramen food stall is due in the spring. Fellow wine writer Wolfgang Weber and I have speculated on ramen-wine theories for months. Mine hinged on a couple of factors: that the range of savory, salty tastes in the bowl and a powerful whack of umami (in addition to long-cooked pork and chicken, you’re working with dashi made from bonito, kombu and dried sardines) meant we needed an unusual thing: wines with less fruit. Instead we needed a tang and a distinct texture to match the intense mouthfeel.”—
“We have taken to using our Cvap for cooking Maine shrimp. We cook them for twenty minutes at 55°C. The delicate moist heat allows the shrimp to be just set and easily peeled in their warmed state. The addition of aromatics to the shrimp is the next step to perfume them with delicate and dish specific notes. The shrimp are almost custard like in texture and in this dish are balanced by quick pickled onions, apples and parsley stems.”—
Chef Aki Kamozawa & Chef H. Alexander Talbot on their blog, Ideas in Food
Cvap = Controlled Vapor machines. This could be a great segueway into a new take on the Japanese chawan mushi.
Congratulations go to Kevin and Tracy at Moshi Moshi for their one year anniversary in the Ballard neighborhood of Seattle! It’s always been our go to place to finish a long day of work with food and drink. They have a new sushi chef, an uber chill wait staff and great drinks from MY favorite bartender, Erik Carlson.
Measure all ingredients in mixing glass except Peychaud’s bitters. Dry shake to whip egg whites. Add ice, shake again and double strain into chilled coupe or sour glass. Garnish with 4 drops of Peychaud’s bitters and swirl drops with stir straw.
If you’re ever in Ballard, look Erik up and request a drink of his choice. He won’t let you down. Congrats!